In Barrenjoey Road (Roads In Pittwater) the sandspit alongside the estuary at the Careel Bay end, and included in descriptions from early walkers to the Barrenjoey Headland, naming Dark Gully and other recognisable features along the way, or even through the photographs of the Allen Family, the shift from a thin track to a wider unsealed track, and eventually something that could barely be negotiated by early motor vehicles, led to open access along sand covered roads and subdivisions that eventually ensured every available block of land for housing was bought and then filled with a structure of some form.
An extract from an early account, A Ride to Barranjoey, describes:
About two miles further on, from another eminence, a view suddenly breaks on the way-farer, certainly, unsurpassed, we think, in this or any other country. It is a magnificent valley, nearly surrounded by hills, — in the centre of which is the daily farm of Mr. John Collins, nearly opposite whose door rises, to the height of 360 feet, the South Head of Broken Bay. On the west side are the ranges that divide Pitt 'Water Harbour from the Hawkesbury River, and through a narrow flat, may be seen the placid water of one of the numerous bays of this fine haven. This farm is a part of the property of the late Rev. Mr. Therry, R. C., and is also well covered with rich grass. Mr. Collins is seldom without a visitor, either by sea or land, and very few ever pass his hospitable cottage on the way to Barranjoey without calling. Here, too, is the cave to which has been given the name of St. Michael, the descent to which over the cliff has been rendered somewhat easier than it was — and about a mile from the cave is the 'Gothic arch,' almost perfect in its proportions, though a purely natural formation. It is about seventy feet high, and from a distance is exactly like the altar window of some huge ruined cathedral erected by the sea-side.
To that point vehicles may proceed without difficulty; from thence to Barranjoey it is only a bridle track, over a mountain, rugged with broken rocks and gnarled trees, but as you progress, magnificent views of Pitt Water harbour and the opposite shore of Broken Bay are obtained, while not the least striking feature is Lion Island, the outline of which is an almost exact resemblance of that noble animal lying . with its head erect, as if guarding the entrance to the Hawkesbury. The 'inclines' on this mountain track are somewhat startling to the novice in bush travelling, the descent into what is termed the 'Dark Gully' being not unlike some of those represented by folklore in Dante's journey to Hades — though the immortal Italian never tried it on horseback.
At the south end of this mountain is Barranjoey, a dark oblong mass, presenting on all sides a rugged front, and joined to the mainland by a narrow isthmus of sand, over which the sea once broke, but now it is covered with a carpet of green, with a ridge of low brushwood along the centre. Just under Barranjoey is the pretty cottage of the Customs officer, Mr. Ross, and the residences of those connected with the Customs station. There is evidence of taste in the gardens and the other cultivated ground around the station, and an air of peaceful comfort quite refreshing to those engaged in the turmoil of city life. From the station to the flagstaff on the top of the mount, the ascent is by a pretty walk, which must have taken considerable time to make, and on either side are various shrubs so planted as to throw an acceptable shade over the road. The view from here is a fitting climax to those on the journey down — to the south-west is a harbour that would hold the fleets of Great Britain, to the west the mouth of the Hawkesbury, to the north Pyramid Island and the entrance to Brisbane Water, and the innumerable inlets that dent the land stretching far into the sea and forming the South Head of Broken Bay, and on the east the unbroken curve of the Pacific.
On the eastern side of Pitt Water, between Barrenjoey and the farm of Mr. Collins, there is a fishing station, of Chinese and Europeans, and even here the neatness of the huts and the care bestowed on the cultivation, of flowers are really pleasing to contemplate. The hut of the European is literally covered with foliage, and surrounded with bee-hives, on which he bestows . much attention. The Chinese cure the fish caught for exportation, and their establishment is a perfect pattern of order and cleanliness; and like the hut of their neighbour, is in the midst of flowers, many of rare description. Beautiful and interesting as the country is from Manly Beach to Broken Bay, one feature presents itself of an unpleasant character, and that is the apparent decay of the farms — it is evident that a large quantity of land was under cultivation. A RIDE TO BARRANJOEY. (1867, March 23). Sydney Mail (NSW : 1860 - 1871), p. 9. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article166798985
Around 50 years later, some of the early panoramas commissioned by land sellers and from the National Library of Australia's Enemark collection of panoramic photographs show these early cut through treed hills road, with the surface seemingly mostly sand:
EB Studios (Sydney, N.S.W.). (circa 1917-1919).
Panorama of Palm Beach, New South Wales,
11 Retrieved from
http://nla.gov.au/nla.obj-162487775 - and enlarged sections from to show road running north beside Careel Bay - courtesy National Library of Australia.
From Newport ocean beach to Barrenjoey, two steep hills have to be encountered; the first is in very bad repair, the surface being denoted by large stones, gutters, and nearing top, heavy, loose sand, which necessitates careful riding on account of its proximity to the cliff. There is also a very rough descent, with loose sand, large stones, gutters, and irregularities. To the foot of the second hill there is a cart track, which is very heavy with loose sand. The road has been neglected. The second hill is the same as the first, yet not so loose with heavy stones, but is steeper in places. The descent is bumpy, and covered in loose sand, and is altogether badly neglected.
Then the road becomes a track which is more or less covered in sand. Here, a sign-post is met, which very indistinctly points the way to Barranjoey; those unable to read it will keep to the right. From here the road becomes rough and indistinguishable. From a track it becomes a grass field, but keeping straight on, the track is once again picked up in very loose sand, which is deep in places, but the absence of big stones is something to be noticed.
Caption reads "This shows the kind of bush track we passed over on our way to Barrenjoey." Image No.: a1373018h, Sunday November 21st, 1909 - from Allen Family Albums: Album 52: Photographs of the Allen family, November - December, 1909. Courtesy State Library of NSW
Sunday November 21st, 1909 - from Allen Family Albums: Album 52: Photographs of the Allen family, November - December, 1909.
Image No.: a1373019h, Courtesy State Library of NSW
The premature track is in places fair, but mostly rough, with loose metal and occasional pinches on to Barranjoey. The trip from Newport to Barranjoey is, altogether, unpleasant for the motorcyclist at the present time. I would advise that the rider who wishes to visit the beautiful resort for the week-end leave his machine at Newport, and take the ferry, which runs twice a day from Newport and Bayview. This is advised if he has any respect for his 'jigger.' Petrol cannot be purchased at Barranjoey, but should the motor-cyclist's tank become dry, he has only to ask the ferryman to bring the required quantity back on the next run. MOTORS AND MOTORING (1913, February 2). Sunday Times (Sydney, NSW : 1895 - 1930), p. 18. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article126462595
Originally these lands were part of the Archpriest J J Therry grant at its southern Avalon Beach - Careel Bay end, with around 170 acres comprising Lots I and II of that northern Careel Bay-Whale Beach Therry lands.
Careel Bay Pittwater - No boundaries shown, 1882. Item No: c053460084, courtesy State Library of NSW.
It should also be noted that 'Careel Bay' on earlier maps, and through the 1920's, was described as stretching from the Dark Gully and MacKays Reserve at Palm Beach end of the Pittwater estuary down to what we today call Careel Bay.
Whale Beach Estate 1918 April 1st c053460074, showing Careel Head Road, Burrowong Road (now spelled Burrawong) and Whale Beach Road - from and courtesy State Library of NSW Pittwater Subdivisions folder.
Palm Beach Estate - Barrenjoey Rd, Surf Rd, - shows Dark Gully - Willmore & Randell, from Palm Beach subdivision plans. Item c052700017, courtesy State Library of NSW
