March 1 - 31, 2026: Issue 652

 

Avalon Beach Historical Society's March 2026 Meeting: On Bangalley Headland's 'Ovens' Caves



The Ovens, Bangalley Headland - Careel Head -Whale Beach. Photos: Kevin Murray

A great night was had by all 55 members and visitors who attended the meeting of the Avalon Beach Historical Society on Tuesday night March 3 in The Annexe on Dunbar Park.

The focus for this meeting was on the history of the SEA CAVES below Bangalley Headland.

For years, locals have known them as THE OVENS and fishermen reckon, they provide the ideal grounds for some of the best fishing available locally. Access has always been difficult for most, and early fishermen cut holes into the sandstone for finger and toe holds, enabling a rope-assisted ascent and descent from the end of Raynor Road.

The term "Ovens" for certain caves comes from the way the ocean tide and waves have carved the coastal rock formations to resemble traditional baking ovens. 

Mandy Temple's dad at The Ovens, circa 1940

Grace Brook, of North Avalon Beach, recalled in her journals:

''In a northerly direction is another cave named “The Ovens”. This has attracted the attention of divers and is also a safe haven for the shelterless and the hungry. There is a theory that the Pacific waters (might) link up with Pittwater but the channel becomes very narrow and so this theory has not been proved yet. It is true, however that these and other caves were used for the storing of contraband in earlier days when the Customs House was located on the Pittwater side of Palm Beach and demanded full details of all merchandise entering the country. Later the smuggled goods would be collected from the hideout.''

It is also a place where the unwary have lost their lives - with 8 having drowned from fishing there by the early 1930's. A father and son were lost, as recalled in this incident:

TWO MEN SWEPT TO DOOM FROM ROCKS AT WHALE BAY'S DEATH-TRAP

Bare Platform Lures the Unsuspecting Fisherman — Suddenly Comes The Wave That Sweeps Him Away



SCENE OF THE DOUBLE DROWNING at Whale Bay. Picture at left: The Gutter Creel Head, and in the right corner, the rock from which the Mitchells were fishing is shown uncovered. The man on the look-out for the bodies is 150 feet above the water Picture at right: The same scene, showing wave action, for which the photographer waited an hour. The gigantic and uncertain wave now covers the rocks. Eight people have lost their lives at  this spot. In oval, John Webster jnr, and his father, John Webster senr, who attempted the rescue of the Mitchells  TWO MEN SWEPT TO DOOM FROM ROCKS AT WHALE BAY'S DEATH-TRAP (1933, July 3). The Daily Telegraph (Sydney, NSW : 1931 - 1954), p. 12. Retrieved from http://nla.gov.au/nla.news-article248127416


Member and local historian Bill Goddard, who ran the Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team in earlier years, has visited the caves many times as a rock climber. His company, Total Height Safety, amongst other achievements was responsible for the Fall Arrest Harnesses used on the replica Endeavour.

After a small amount of General Business, the meeting began with some excellent drone footage, shot and edited by John Illingsworth of PITTWATER PATHWAYS. John took us into the Whale Beach sea caves with his drone, showing the full extent and height of the ‘Ovens’. The voices of member Felicity Davis and son Russ were appropriately woven in with the footage and later featured in some dramatic stills from inside the northern sea cave.

Bill Goddard and a couple of scouting mates, Mark and Greg Lintern, formed the Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team. One of their exploits involved securing their ropes to Mark’s Hillman Hunter before descending Serpentine headland at A. J. Small Lookout at North Bilgola.

Their ventures into the Ovens were no less sensational, climbing to the roof of the north cave and abseiling from the headland above. His presentation was accompanied by some great photos of their adventures.

Local, Simon Young, the youngest and most recent venturer into the caves, talked of his exploit and illustrated it with photos of the stunning colours in the clear water of the southern oven on an ideal day.

You can view the amazing drone footage of the caves by John Illingsworth below.

Geoff Searl OAM
President, Avalon Beach Historical Society

'Lots of Rope': the 'Coke Ovens' sea caves beneath Careel Head Reserve

by John Illingsworth, Pittwater Pathways

Adventurer John Davis' 2010 photo now followed up in 2026 with 4K footage,  including a first hand narrative of the 'Madness' ascent.

Thanks to the John Barry and John Williams MUSIC copyright holders for enabling this work.

John reiterates:

The purpose of this film is to show an interesting but potentially dangerous place in a way that's not dangerous i.e. though the lens of a drone camera. It is a history, not an instructional video.

NOTE 1: re entering caves - 'One point on safety beyond going at low tide would be wave condition—direction, height and better if no wind or offshore wind.' BT

NOTE 2: Waves come in groups that is “packages of energy” which can produce 3 to 7 waves at the point of contact with the shore. Anyone contemplating Jump Rock must take into account the dangers of jumping in near the entrance to the Caves, particularly if a wave group is present as each wave will tend to lower the water level further as it “sucks back" to feed the next wave in the group. Entering the water by jumping off the feature known as Jump Rock is neither advisable nor endorsed by this video. Inside the caves a similar issue can arise as a set of waves can catch people unaware thereby trapping and/or pummelling them if inside the cave and the danger increases the further they go into the cave. Clearly the access to the caves down the headland is in itself very dangerous and should not be attempted nor encouraged. The best way to view and experience the Coke Ovens is by drone which is the very purpose of this video. AG

NOTE 3: As for the caves themselves, your great imagery still doesn't give me a clear explanation of their origin.A couple of frames in the northern cave ceiling hint at the possibility of another clastic dyke like St Michaels, but I see nothing to confirm it. In the southern cave there are 3 vertical fractures packed full of limonite and just outside it and parallel there are a couple more, so looks like the system is on another major fault zone. That would be enough to form them and it would be nice to get some orientation. I'd expect them to be the same as Turimetta, approx. NNE, but get the feeling they may not be.  We assume that wave attack opens these features, but St Michaels cave floor is well above present day waves, and the same may be true for the northern Oven, Did these initially form at a slightly higher sea level?  It's possible but better reserve judgment until we can pile up more evidence. PM